Cross Team Properties

Roman blinds and austrian blinds are probably the two easiest blinds to make oneself from scratch at home. Using reasonably inexpensive and widely available components these two types of blind are simple and quick to make. Instructions on how to make roman and austrian blinds can be found on many websites and in home improvement books and magazines.

Roman blinds are hung from a batten securely attached to the top of the window. Usually lightweight to medium-weight material is used, and the blinds are also lined if the blinds are going to be used to eliminate light. Roman blinds lie flat widthways and are not gathered in any way. Metal or wooden rods, called dowels, are sewn into the back of the blind and plastic eyelets are attached level with the rods through which nylon cord is threaded from the bottom. The nylon cord comes out of the top of the blind and is attached in a figure of eight shape around a cleat screwed to the wall when the blind is raised. On account of the rigidity of the rods the blind material should fold into neat overlapping pleats when raised.

Austrian blinds are even easier to make as they are hung like traditional curtains on an ordinary curtain track. There is more material used to make austrian blinds as they are gathered widthways and lengthways, so generally lightweight material is used. Blind tape is sewn vertically onto the back of the blind, at the edges and in the middle. Nylon cord is threaded through the loops in the tape from the bottom, and pulled out of the top of the blind. When it is pulled to raise the curtain, and secured to a cleat at the side of the window, it causes attractive scallop-shaped folds in the blind. The blind material is always longer than the window so that even when the blind is lowered it maintains scalloped folds.

Opening up a wall in your home? Seek professional advice first. Knocking down walls has structural implications for your house and you should consult a structural surveyor before you proceed.

Most load-bearing walls are constructed from brick or block work, however in modern dwellings it is possible for a wood frame and plasterboard wall to be load bearing as well.

Decide where you want to open up the wall, then contact the local building inspector for a consultation.

If you get the green light to proceed, here is a brief order of works:

Before removing any bricks, fit a lintel to support the weight of the wall above. Use acrows (steel props) to support the weight of the wall while lintel is positioned, (check floor is strong enough to support the weight of the wall on the props beforehand).

Remove bricks carefully to make space for the lintel.

Install lintel, using mortar. Allow time for mortar to harden.

The supporting props can be removed once the mortar has hardened fully. Now you can remove the bricks carefully from below the lintel, opening up the space.

Symptoms of Woodworm

Although woodworm can have catastrophic consequences for a property, it is important to put things in perspective. In the UK, bricks rather than timber have been the cornerstone of building for generations. That is not to say woodworm should be ignored, particularly as many contemporary designs do favour wooden exteriors. Flooring and furniture, in particular, are also susceptible to attack.

So what are we dealing with here? There are several hundred species of beetle that bore into wood.  Thankfully, only around half a dozen of them are regular intruders and these are only classified as woodworm at the larval or grub stage of development. Britain’s most widespread borer is the Common Furniture Beetle.

Damage can be particularly common in drawer or cupboard linings, because, unfortunately, the insects have developed a taste for the glue used in manufacturing. The first indication is tiny holes, which are drilled by the beetles after the eggs are laid, as well as areas of dust left by this excavation work.

Rooms in the house that are humid, contain damp patches or are poorly ventilated, are the most likely areas to find woodworm infestation. While discovering evidence of woodworm in furniture is a big enough hassle, finding holes in your attic timber joists requires immediate attention.

Treating Woodworm

It cannot be overemphasised that if you suspect infestation, seek professional advice. Evidence of holes could merely be the tip of a much deeper problem. Minor outbreaks can be treated with insecticide, which is sprayed into the affected areas and such products are sold in most DIY stores. Furniture is treated by injecting anti-woodworm fluid into those telltale holes; not every single hole, but allowing a coverage of every 50-100mm.

Woodworm can also be brought into the house if you buy infected second-hand furniture; applying the same treatment should resolve the problem. 

Finally, remember to try and keep rooms dry and well ventilated.

You’ve decided to install a new kitchen, but first you will have to rip out the old one.  This article offers a guide to removing your old kitchen.

The first thing you should do is remove everything from the old kitchen, for example all crockery such as plates as well as electrical appliances such as your toaster.  However, if your cooker is attached to the gas line, do not attempt to remove it. 

Following the removal and storing of everything in your kitchen, you can now begin to remove your cabinets.  Start by removing the upper cabinets.  This is because you can then rest your tools on the lower ones.  Start by removing the doors and then the rest of the cabinet.  A lot of force and strength will be required to complete this task.  However, try not to leave too many holes in the walls. It’s also a possibility that the cabinets are attached to the walls with long screws or by brackets.  An electric screwdriver will be useful for removal if this is the case.

When all upper cabinets have been removed you can now deal with the water system and removal of the sink.  Turn off the water using the stopcock under the sink for the cold water and the valve in the loft or airing cupboard for the hot water.  Let the systems run themselves dry simply by turning the taps on.   The wastepipe can be undone underneath the sink and you can use a bucket to catch any drips. 

You can now remove the worktop and the lower cabinets.  Be careful, though, not to disturb the pipe work around the sink area. A professional should be called in to remove the gas cooker because they will be able to do the task safely and at the same time check for any leaks.  The radiator can be removed and the floor prised up.  When all of these tasks are complete you are ready to fit your new kitchen.

Safety Considerations

Safety considerations will include such things as ensuring there are no pipes or cables that will be affected when demolishing the wall.  Additionally, you will need to think about where the rubble is going to fall and what you are going to do with it. You might need to discuss your plans with your neighbours if it might affect their property too.

You will need to wear protective clothing and safety goggles.  Additionally a dust mask and protective footwear are advisable. 

Demolition and Clearance

The wall should be dismantled section by section.  As you take down each section you should clear the rubble appropriately.  The tools to use are a hammer and a bolster chisel.  The blade of the chisel should be held horizontally against a mortar joint a couple of courses beneath the top of the wall.  Bang the bolster to drive it into the bed.  After a few strikes the bricks will have been loosened and you can then remove them.  Repeat the process, clearing as you go.  Remove the bricks down the foundation, as new foundations will be laid with your new wall.

If a radiator is cold at the top when the heating is on then it is highly likely that there is air trapped inside. The trapped air rises to the top thereby stopping the hot water from reaching that part of the radiator. Bleeding the radiator to release the trapped air will stop this from happening and will ensure that the radiator works more efficiently.

To bleed a radiator it first must be left to go cold. Using a radiator key, loosen the air bleed valve that is located at one end of the radiator at the top. Having an old rag or towel close by is a good idea, as water will also leak from the valve. Once loosened there will be a hissing sound as the air escapes.

Once water starts to escape, use the key again to close the bleed valve. If the radiator is not left to go cold the water that escapes can be very hot and there is a risk of scalding. This is a process that should be needed quite infrequently. If a radiator needs to be bled on a regular basis there may be a problem with the central heating system and an engineer will be required.

Radiators on a pressurised system cannot be bled in this way and expert advice will be required.

Many different types of draught excluders can be fitted to the bottom edges of doors to prevent draughts. Whatever type is employed, it has to be fitted properly so that the door can continue to open and close smoothly.

When you use draught excluders, it is essential to follow any instructions to assure the precise positioning of the draught excluder to the door. The components of a draught excluder need to be identified correctly and all the required fixings must be to hand before starting the job.

When fitting a draught excluder, all measurements must be accurate to ensure that the product will fit the door. Once measurements have been attained, the components can be cut to fit the width of the door. The positions of fixing screws should be noted and any surplus material cut away from both ends of the draught excluder before installation occurs.

In the case of a simple brush excluder, you must slide the brush back prior to cutting the rigid strip. Mark the position of the top of the draught excluder on the door itself and then hold it in place before driving in the fixing screws.

Step 1: think about, and plan, your garden in the same way as your house, so that different areas have different roles. You might want separate spaces for outdoor dining, a children’s play area and a storage area, for example. Also think about different garden styles such as country cottage, architectural, natural or formal, and decide what you like best.

Step 2: research the types of plants that grow well in your soil and which areas are shady or bright. Also consider the level of maintenance involved and if you don’t have much spare time keep the lawns and flower beds to a minimum.

Step 3: get stuck in. Don’t be afraid to be bold by moving things around, installing natural dividers such as trees and hedges, and using paving and decking. With a little advice and the right tools you can do all these jobs yourself.

Step 4: don’t be afraid of using water. Installing a water feature can make a very dramatic impact on a garden. With modern pond liners, water pumps and aquatic plants so readily available, this can be a relatively easy way to make a big difference.

Step 5: keep things tidy. One of the quickest ways to make a big improvement to any garden is to get rid of any rubbish such as old tiles and paving stones, broken flower pots and the like. A new shed or store area is ideal for keeping unsightly bags of compost, bits of netting etc. out of sight.

Step 6: make use of outdoor lighting. You’ll be amazed at the range of lighting available these days, much of which is solar powered and therefore doesn’t require an electrician to install. You can use interesting colours; highlight beautiful features and use lanterns and fairy lights to create a romantic atmosphere.

A common household DIY job is the replacement of an old WC cistern. In the case of a flush panel cistern, you can connect the new cistern up to the existing pan. This is simply fitted to the wall at the rear of the pan, projecting outwards by about 115 millimetres. The narrowness of the cistern is required because a high-level arrangement would mean that the pan would project too far and interfere with raising the toilet seat.

It is often easier to cut through the piping rather than to spend time and effort in releasing the old and often stuck connectors when releasing an old cistern. As new pipework will have to be installed, cutting through the pipework will cause no harm.

To replace a cistern, you will need to close off the water supply and flush the cistern before cutting into the pipework. Next, take off the lid and lift the old cistern away from the wall. When fitting a new cistern, fit its brackets to the wall. Place the cistern into position and mark the fixing holes, then drill these and plug them before screwing the cistern into place on the wall.

The overflow pipe then needs to be connected to the cistern and led through an outside wall or else to a nearby drain, bath or shower tray. The siphon assembly should then be mounted into the bottom of the cistern and the flush lever fitted and connected to the flushing mechanism. After the ball valve assembly has been fitted to the cistern’s side and the sealing washers fitted into place, the flush pipe is fitted between the cistern and pan and then a 15 millimetre supply pipe attached to the ball valve inlet.

A rubber plunger is an inexpensive and indispensable addition to a DIY kit, but it will only work effectively if correctly used. 

A plunger consists of a rubber suction cap and a wooden handle.  Both the suction cup and the handle come in different sizes.  The suction cup needs to cover the waste outlet completely and form a good seal with the surrounding surface.  To be effective the rubber suction cup should not have any cracks and should be soft and flexible.  The handle should be long enough to allow the cup to cover the waste outlet without requiring the user’s hands to be exposed to backed up liquid, as, for example, in a blocked toilet, and also to allow sufficient downward pressure to be exerted easily.

A plunger must have water between the clog and the suction cup to be effective.  If the unit is empty be sure to fill it with enough water to cover the suction cup, before pushing down.  To ensure that all exerted pressure is applied to the obstruction, block all overflow outlets firmly with a cloth.

It is advisable to wear safety glasses or goggles when using a plunger, and to keep the body back from the unit, to avoid splash backs.

After blocking overflow outlets place the suction cup over the unit’s waste outlet/ drain plug.

Ensure that the drain is covered and the rubber is resting on the surrounding surface.

If empty run water into the unit to a depth sufficient to cover the suction cup.

Push down firmly with handle and then pull up sharply, repeat action 5-6 times.

Check to see if the unit is draining correctly

If the blockage has not cleared, alternative methods should be employed.